6 lessons · gentle basics only · every claim sourced — from Sunsun Nail, Fukuoka, Japan
🎯 Goal: once you know how nails work, the rules ("don't cut cuticles", "file in one direction") make sense.
| Nail plate | The hard "nail" itself, made of keratin — the same protein as hair |
|---|---|
| Nail bed | The skin under the plate. The nail sits tightly on it |
| Matrix | The "nail factory" hidden at the base. New nail is made here |
| Lunula | The white half-moon at the base. Not seeing one is normal too |
| Cuticle | The thin skin at the base of your nail. It is a seal that protects the nail factory from germs |
Fingernails generally grow about 3 mm per month (source: InformedHealth.org). Damaged areas take months to grow out — so nail care is a habit, not a quick fix.
Nail clippers · a fine nail file (emery board) · a wooden stick (orange stick; a cotton swab works too) · hand cream, and cuticle oil if you have it · for color: base coat, polish, top coat, remover, cotton pads · rubber gloves for dishwashing.
⚠️ The nail plate is only about 0.5 mm thick. Scraping or over-buffing the surface can take months to grow out. Anything that removes nail should be done gently.
🎯 Goal: a shape that resists chips and splits. Two rules: don't cut too short, and file in one direction.
A "squoval" shape (straight edge with softened corners) is generally considered beginner-friendly and chip-resistant.
⚠️ Don't saw back and forth with the file. Nails are built in thin layers; sawing is said to cause peeling and splitting. And never pull a hangnail — cut it at the base with clean clippers instead.
🎯 Goal: cuticles are not something to remove. Gently tidy them, then moisturize. This is the most important lesson in the course.
Cuticle care once every 1–2 weeks is plenty. Moisturizing, on the other hand, works best daily — after every hand wash, cream your nails and the skin around them. Wear rubber gloves for wet chores; long water exposure is said to weaken nails.
⚠️ Do not cut your cuticles. The American Academy of Dermatology advises against cutting cuticles because it can let bacteria in and lead to infection around the nail. Stop right away if you feel pain or see bleeding. Nail-biting and cuticle-picking damage the nail factory — a habit worth retiring.
🎯 Goal: the basic technique for an even manicure, plus removal that is gentle on your nails.
Removers come in acetone (fast, but drying) and acetone-free (milder, slower) versions. If dryness bothers you, acetone-free is an option.
⚠️ Polish removers are flammable. Keep them away from flames and heat, use them in a ventilated room, and store them out of children's reach (per the U.S. FDA's consumer guidance). And don't pick or peel polish off with your nails — layers of nail can come off with it.
🎯 Goal: a natural, secure fit. Most of the result comes from sizing and prep.
| Adhesive tabs | Nail glue | |
|---|---|---|
| Wear time | Often described as a few days up to a week | Often described as 1–2 weeks |
| Best for | Trying a look, one-day wear, reusing your tips | Longer wear, event weeks |
| Removal | Usually comes off gently with warm water | Takes longer (see Lesson 6) |
With glue: use a small drop, place the tip at a 45° angle just in front of the cuticle, roll it down to push out air, and press for 30–60 seconds. Avoiding water for about an hour after application is commonly said to help the bond set. Thumbs move the most — apply them last and press longest.
⚠️ If glue touches your skin, don't rub or force it — loosen it slowly with warm water or oil. Some people develop allergic skin reactions to nail adhesives and artificial nails. If you notice itching, redness, or swelling, stop and see a dermatologist. Skip application entirely if your nails or skin are damaged or inflamed.
🎯 Goal: the golden rule, straight from every good guide: never force it.
Tips applied with tabs and removed with the soak method can generally be reused — clean the back, dry completely, and store in a case (some guides mention 3–5 wears). Custom-fitted tips are especially worth reusing, since they already match your nail shape.
⚠️ Pain means stop and soak again. Never pry tips off. After removal, if you see green, white, or yellow discoloration, pain, or swelling, please see a dermatologist.
It depends on application and lifestyle. Guides generally mention a few days to a week with adhesive tabs and 1–2 weeks with glue. Results vary — apply them the day before a big event, not the morning of.
Applied and removed correctly, they are often described as one of the gentler options. The risks are not zero: forcing them off can damage the nail surface, and adhesives can cause allergic reactions in some people. Never force removal, give your nails rest periods, and moisturize after each set.
Beyond this course, but one rule matters most: keep uncured gel off your skin. UK dermatologists have warned about rising allergies to gel ingredients (such as HEMA), and the EU restricts some of these ingredients to professional use. If you notice itching or swelling, stop and see a dermatologist.
Our custom press-on tips currently ship within Japan only. The lessons above are for everyone, everywhere. 🌍
American Academy of Dermatology: 11 tips for healthy nails · AAD: Artificial nails — reducing damage · Mayo Clinic: Fingernail do's and don'ts · InformedHealth.org (NCBI): Structure of the nails · University of Utah Health: The danger of cutting cuticles · U.S. FDA: Nail care products (flammability, ventilation) · British Association of Dermatologists: artificial nail allergy warning · Healthline: How to remove press-on nails · Cleveland Clinic: Potential risks of press-on nails
This guide is for general information only and is not medical advice. Results vary from person to person. For any nail problems, please consult a dermatologist. Photos and custom tips are by our nail artist, nami — Sunsun Nail, Fukuoka, Japan (salon opening soon).